In Southeast Africa, beadwork is a visual form of artistic expression that serves to amplify the voice of both the artist and the wearer. When viewing Southeast African beadwork, it is important to keep in mind these beautiful objects were made to be worn. These beads, together with the human body, form a complete work of art. Most of the traditional beadwork produced in Southeast Africa is worn by women, and their appropriate forms record the development of a woman’s entire life, from birth through childhood, pubescence, adulthood, marriage, childbearing and maturity.
Ndebele married woman's apron (liphotu)
The liphotu is the first apron worn by married Ndebele women and is easily identified by its two side flaps and beaded tassels hanging in a row between them. The two side flaps are said to represent the bride and groom and the center tassels the expectation of their children.
Zulu wedding cape (isikoti or isibheklane)
The isikoti or isibheklane is typically constructed of multiple beaded strips of varying ages. The bride’s older female relatives contribute bands of beading in the ‘old style’ with beading done in a white field, while her younger generation female relatives complete beaded bands in the contemporary style with beading done in black fields. The phrase incorporated into this cape, izinto mazinjena ngingenzenjani, translates to “things are like this, what should we do?”
Zulu Msinga pregnancy apron (umbodiya)
The umbodiya is traditionally made from the hide of a cow sacrificed to the father’s ancestors for the protection of the unborn baby. The metal studs probably represent the Zulu motif called amasumpa (warts) that symbolize herds of cattle and are used to emphasize the role of cattle in marriage and procreation.
Zulu warrior dance costume
The Zulu male ceremonial dance costume is a visual celebration of a proud warrior heritage. Descendants of a nation founded on the impressive military strength of King Shaka’s reign, many Zulu men still strongly identify with their glorious militant past. Through dance, Zulu men reenact military maneuvers and victorious battles that continue to live on in oral history.
Xhosa woman’s costume
The white fabric of this Xhosa costume is typically reserved for ceremonial and festive occasions. This costume includes a braided blanket, and a long, wrap-around braided skirt (umbhaco). Additional adornments worn are intricately beaded wide flared collars, an assortment of beaded neck ornaments, a beaded belt and a bead and braided tobacco pouch (iingxowa). It is common among the Xhosa, for both men and women to smoke pipes. The shape and size of Xhosa pipes differ according to the individual’s status level among the community.
Xhosa man’s costume
The red ochre color of this Xhosa blanket and skirt is worn during normal, everyday activity within the community. Red ochre symbolizes the blood of the earth and the Xhosa believe its color to be beloved by the ancestors. Other elements of this Xhosa man’s ensemble includes two beaded collars (amathumbu), a wide flared collar with a long bead streamer (imiphalaza), a narrow chest panel (amaqhina), an animal hair necklace (intshinga), and a long beaded necklace (isidanga). This is only a small representation of married Xhosa man’s full beaded regalia, which can include up to seventy pieces and must be put on in correct sequence.
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